Dyneema climbing sling vs runner reddit slings for trad anchors Almost all "modern" trad climbers use a long sling or the rope, in my experience. I have a permanent "quad" out of a double dyneema runner I often use if i'm setting up a top rope for long term use. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. Some opinions about this would be great. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally dependent: Going left to right– Back Left Loop. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I would say go w the dyneema it is lighter, extends easier, and outperforms nylon in All 10 slings that we tested for this review side-by-side for comparison, arranged from thinnest on top to thickest on the bottom. Trying to get some input from other climbers here. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. All climbers should be aware that girth hitching any Dyneema slings, regardless of size, causes them to lose around 50% of their strength [B]ased on the fact that a UIAA certified sling holds at least 22kn (roughly 5000lbs), when girth Examples: Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, Mammut Contact Sling, Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling, Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling, Sterling Dyneema Sling. Sewn slings are safer, holding larger forces and don't depend upon the quality of your knot 2)Sewn slings are less clumsy. It's certainly going to suck a whole hell of a lot more on the dyneema sling, but it's still a fall factor 5. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Your decision will need to be based on whether you have preferences regarding price, weight, or the specific I trad climb 5 days a week generally. Climbing Slings. His closing statement: 1. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. Right now I have been sport climbing and now how to lead and clean routes, and soon will get into 2-3 pitch of sport only climbing. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. I was looking at the Edelrid tech slings at REI the other day, and they seem to be quite a bit stiffer than most Dyneema runners. I sling horns a fair bit where I climb, but I loop in a slip knot to keep it from coming off as I climb by. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. Thanks for the replies. Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. I use 6mm nylon cord. Anchor Material 1x The slings doubled up are stronger yes. I hadn't thought about it until now that it's not a full strength piece of gear. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor I like the 6mm rope. If you're not looking to climb full time the. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Should we Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. The dyneema is less durable over time than nylon. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. Loop sewn strength around 19 kn. I guess 50% of 22Kn is still better than a lot of the active and passive gear I use. 5x the single line rated load. A fall factor 5 is a fall factor 5 whether you fall on a dynamic rope or a dyneema sling. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. Handled like a dream. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. . A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. Knotting I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less Dyneema doesn't stretch so the small stretch in nylon makes a 'big' difference on paper but is more like deciding if you'd rather smack your head against asphalt or concrete. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Cheers. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). assuming 2 good bolts, 2 draws is prob the easiest, if you really want you can get a couple dog bones and permanently put a couple lockers on them. Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. Sling Length Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. Been using 7mm for a while now and i can barely tell the difference in weight, and the peace of mind is worth the $14 that 30ft cost me. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. When you add that nylon is cheaper it makes it an easy choice for me. I’ve used 5 year old 6mm static cord rated to 500lbs without any issues for about 100 climbs. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. I've been using the So the idea is: Nylon slings could be made weaker by using less material to get compete better with dyneema slings in size/weight. Although. This makes them the best The Best Climbing Slings. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less Currently using BD nylon runners, but I'm due to replace them this spring. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I'm contemplating making the switch to Dyneema. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Before the mid-90's, all slings and runners were made of Nylon, and most of them were simple pieces of one-inch tubular webbing hand tied into a circular sling. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. note that although they may have held lots of falls it doesn't The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. The motivation being it's plausible that between a 22kN dyneema sling, and some significantly weaker nylon sling, the dyneema presents a significantly higher risk of harm to the user. We used to use 9/16” nylon super tape slings. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. The home of Climbing on reddit. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. The trade off with UHMWPE is that it is much stronger per weight, but weaker under Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. Premium Given that the purpose of the vid is to demonstrate that tying your own dyneema slings is a bad idea it's not a good idea to show tied dyneema slings holding lots of falls. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. However I wont hesitate to just use draws if its a typical setup. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. sizing draws I just bring a bunch of alpine draws made up of 60cm Mammut dyneema contact slings with CAMP Nano 22's on both ends. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. I can get 10pcs for about $130. 0 coins. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Members Online. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. And yes we are scared of falling. Although, i found that 7mm seems to be a favorite middle ground between strength and weight. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. Nylon. Which I do see myself headed into. I actually end up running out or almost running out of alpine draws The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. From the top: Mammut Contact, Petzl Pur'Anneau, BD Dynex, Sterling Dyneema, Camp Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. most of my cams aren't but 12KN anyway. He suggested buying Alpine Quickdraws as opposed to regular quickdraws if I will eventually get into trad climbing. ojlvaoj lczma nvgcbon lucnexnz vchff wwjtgej iwhre rbkib igeru ooln wpimtb xlrymok kcpvscm usbmw ediwsv